An iconic moment in subculture, reinvented.

Gulp Fiction

Vincent: What the fried rice is this place?

Mia: This is “Jackrabbit Filly.” A Genghis man should love it.

Vincent: Come on, Mia. Let’s go and get some marinated mackerel ($13).

Mia: You can get marinated mackerel here, Daddy-o. Don’t be a hare.

Vincent: Oh, after you, Mustang Sally.

Following suit, the menu at Jackrabbit Filly — Shuai and Corrie Wang’s predestined jump from their popular Short Grain food truck — takes quintessential Asian fare, and adds some vamp. While the lunch and dinner offerings rotate often, rest assured the menu is filled with tasty iterations of kimchi, laksa curry, and Sichuan peppercorns.

The pork and cabbage dumplings ($9) are where Yangtze meets Ganges, with a rich mix of pork, cabbage, ginger, and coriander encased inside the perfectly cooked pasta wrapper. Topped with a pungent chinkiang vinegar and Lao Gan Ma chili crisp sauce, the first bite is like suddenly finding something you hadn’t even realized was missing.

Muse on that while you wait. And wait. And do a little more waiting for a table. Arrive at 5:30 p.m. and the place is already bumping, with the predicted 45-minute biding-of-time ultimately taking 30 minutes longer. Eventually things will presumably die down and/or a reservation system engaged, but for now you can bank on plenty of hobnobbing with strangers. If you have a hankering for Asian fusion and awkward conversations, the front porch has what you need. Huddle under a heat lamp, sip a drink with a name so long and unnecessary it’s a little cringey to say it aloud (“I’ll take a ‘That’s right, Iceman. I am Dangerous,” $10) and watch as converging generations grapple for common ground.

From the name, one might expect the salt and pepper octopus ($11) to arrive as something along the lines of crisp, cornstarch-coated tentacles tossed with Sichuan and jalapeno peppers.

One would be wrong. In actuality, it’s closer to popcorn shrimp than shell-on crunchy crustacean, and there ain’t nothing wrong with that. Topped with green onion and crisp cucumber, all drenched in a buttermilk wasabi aioli, I’m from here on referring to it as octopoda with ranch.

The fish tartare ($12), however, should be called bait and switch. I mean, yes, there’s raw fish, but it’s plated on top of nori-wrapped cylinders of rice and, well — it’s deconstructed sushi. The generous bounty of smoky Chipotle-esque “spicy mayo” and fishy furikake overshadowed the delicate fish, but props for what is undoubtedly a clever idea by any name.

Short Grain’s beloved karaage ($8) endures in both its forms, traditional and Sichuan hot. Basically the best chicken tenders, ever; the meat is juicy, the coating crunchy, and the drizzle of lemon mayo and ponzu — along with some togarashi-induced heat — should be presented with the following disclaimer: “The karaage is a small structure made of chicken. It is delicious, and you are not ready for it.”

You’ll soon cycle through all five stages of grief.

Denial. “It’s not that delicious. I can control myself.”

Anger. “Who the f—- ordered this?!”

Bargaining. “If I finish it all, can I have my soul back?”

Depression. “There is no love here, and there is no pain.”

Acceptance. “I will die because of this, and I am fine with that.”

So, to sum it up, apply for that second mortgage now, because it’s probably also addictive.

A surprising showstopper, the menu’s description of the cauliflower salad ($10) gives insufficient insight as to how I can recreate it at home. “This salad is out of control,” groaned my vegetable-eschewing, suddenly greedy dining companion. Rendered bright green from the cilantro dressing, the tender florets contrast nicely with the crunch of fried chickpeas, peanuts, and puffed rice. While a takeout order — or three — will be necessary to truly re-engineer the dish, I’m not angry.

Despite the crowds and increasing throngs of jostling bodies waiting for a table, service was cheerful and efficient. The two-top to our left remained empty for a while, so it’s possible the extreme busyness is also because they’re pacing things in order to stay in the flow. And it probably doesn’t hurt sales of those “Truth is, I’ve been thirsty all my life” ($10) gin and sochu cocktails. And congrats if you get that reference without Google.

During our wait, we chatted with some guys about their undying affection for the Singapore fried rice ($17). While they eventually gave up and went to get a pizza, we ultimately gazed upon a large dish of ham, pineapple, pea, and carrot-filled grains. Topped with cilantro, Thai basil, five juicy shrimp, and a buttermilk curry aioli, it’s a sweet, smoky, and satisfying version of the classic.

One doesn’t anticipate running into tomatillos at an Asian restaurant. But fusions like this is why fusion exists, and it turns out the indigenous Mexican nightshades make total sense in the mapo tofu verde ($16). So do the pillowy, flavor-soaked ricotta gnudi and crisp, flowery coriander seeds. While a very generous portion, it’s too bad there isn’t some kind of bollillo or Hokkaido milk bread rolls on offer to soak up what remains of the bright, complex sauce.

On that note, short-grain rice ($3) is available as a side dish, and don’t overlook the garlicky greens ($5) listed below it. Topped with ponzu and dressed in a garlicky (duh), gingery sauce, the kale is everything greens dream of becoming when they grow up.

“If I had the authority, I’d give them an award,” sighed my dining companion. While, alas, no World Famous Jackrabbit Filly twist contest exists (yet), a similar, multi-tiered, two-foot-tall trophy sounds about right. Grab some friends, share the love, and share it hard.

The post Jackrabbit Filly has a long future ahead of it in Park Circle – Charleston City Paper appeared first on Vanessa Wolf, MBA.

They say a good chef will rise to any challenge. Legend has it, while at an impromptu late-night get together, Mario Batali saved the day by preparing foie gras accompanied with an ad-libbed reduction of orange Nehi soda and Starburst fruit candies (no word on any sexual harassment, but that’s a story for another day). The results were reportedly brilliant.

One imagines Dashi’s chef Stephen Thompson capable of similar unfathomable feats. As it stands, let’s say you’re in the mood for Thai … and Mexican … and definitely Japanese, as well as Korean. And you want them now, and in the same mouthful. No longer must you dispatch a fleet of Uber Eats drivers to satisfy your whims, as food truck Dashi has (also, the truck still roves on Tuesdays) taken their wheels off on Remount Road.

Since early 2015, the Asian-Latin fusion vehicle has been winning admirers all over town. Now permanently occupying the former home of Guatemalan El Chapin restaurant, the decidedly retro, ’70s-themed space is simple and straightforward.

The opposite must be said about the food.

Although fruity candy and citrus soda don’t appear among the listed ingredients on the menu, much about Dashi smacks of similar late-night, last-minute innovation. Saunter up to the counter and behold an eclectic collection of colliding cuisines. Here, banh mi ($12) and pad Thai ($11) mingle with tacos ($5/$9/$12) and burritos ($11), all of which come with a choice of protein. Choose from chili-marinated fried chicken, marinated fried tofu, five-spice pork belly, sauteed shrimp, and seasonal veggies and prepare to welcome a five-pound, eight-ounce bundle of joy into your life.

Encased in a cheese wrap and filled with fried rice, Thai slaw, and Sriracha hollandaise, plus both smoked gouda and mozzarella cheese, this is a diverse, decidedly non-Mexican mouthful. It’s also a mega amount of food, with no less than a dozen shrimp squeezed in. Overall, the flavors are mild and creamy, with the only real heat coming from the accompanying cup of sambal aioli. Burritos with a side of mayonnaise? Welcome to Anything Goesville.

Case in point, the duck ramen ($14). Also quite ample, the unexpected triceps workout is filled with culinary surprises, like rich, tender duck confit and a delightfully runny Scotch egg. While the presentation plays at bibimbap — with fresh cilantro, pickled jalapenos, housemade kimchi, and chunks of five spice-coated pork belly all relegated to their respective corners — the flavors are distinctly Chinese. Filled with Cantonese noodles, cabbage, and broccoli, the duck and miso-based broth is aggressively dominated by the sweet notes of five spice powder.

Set on Remount Road, the once-simple space has been opened up, and metal beams and aluminum ductwork loom overhead. The vibe is casual and noisy, and diners share a neighborly rapport. Along with Wednesday night trivia and occasional live music acts on the outdoor patio, there’s a full bar offering an admirable array of beer, wine, and cocktails.

Service is minimal and laid back. Order at the counter, grab a number and a booth and wait for the grub to arrive. Owing to the enduring food truck model, that doesn’t take long.

While a number of international cuisines are represented, Thailand reigns supreme. The lone salad available at Dashi is a fairly by-the-book Thai beef ($12) variation, made with fresh greens, halved cherry tomatoes, and sliced cucumbers. Topped with thinly carved flank steak and copious grilled red onion rounds, it’s doused in a bright fish sauce and lime juice dressing. Fresh and flavorful, it’s a light dish that’s also somehow substantial.

Dashi’s logo is all about Latin-Asian fusion, but make no assumptions, as other cuisines clamor for attention and many a dish is not what it seems. Made with blue crab and shrimp, the spicy seafood roll ($16) presents as New England fare, but the crisp topping of fried oysters and a generous layer of spicy mayo render it far more evocative of a punchy New Orleans po’ boy than an understated Maine lobster roll.

Similarly, after a few bites of the paella ($15), my dining companion happily proclaimed that he “really liked this dirty rice.” Decidedly oily, the soft grains are mixed with roasted poblanos and thin-sliced, intensely smoky chorizo. Topped with fresh cilantro, broccoli florets, and garlic aioli, note there’s also a family-size portion of sliced chicken breast. Nonetheless, in showcasing smoke over saffron and sausage in place of seafood, the dish comes across far more Cajun than anything hailing from Valencia.

Firing on all cylinders and true to its title, the Thai curry stir fry noodles ($14) are a slurpy, spicy, coconut milky dream. Interlaced with broccoli, carrots, and purple cabbage, the thin Cantonese ramen noodles bathe in a generous pool of vibrant Thai red curry sauce. Lighter appetites can anticipate getting at least two meals out of this, as your protein of choice will once again be administered in Herculean quantities.

Dashi is an enigma, but that seems to be the point. While traditional Japanese dashi is most recognized as a simple, umami-rich broth made with kombu (kelp) and bonito (fish) flakes, at Dashi, the fusion-by-way-of-hostile-takeover menu is all about detonating umami nukes.

Bold, brash, and prone to multilingual flights of fancy, come with an appetite for irreverence. Yes, some of the cheeky mashups are weird, but others are surprisingly serendipitous. Thai curry with Chinese noodles, Indonesian sambal, and Mexican cotija cheese? Don’t knock it ’til you’ve tried it.

Along with Dashi’s whimsical array of globetrotting options and convivial atmosphere, big appetites on a budget can also bank on abundant portions with a large side of unapologetic culinary audacity.

The post Dashi’s irreverent mashup of cuisines is at once weird and wonderful (Charleston City Paper) appeared first on Vanessa Wolf, MBA.

There are men, and there are “men’s men.” The latter are often described as confident and masculine — the type of man other men want to be. On that note, Butcher & The Boar is a “man’s man” of restaurants. Cocksure and handsome, he’s well-heeled, but easygoing, pulling out a chair while proffering a well-curated array of beer, bourbon, and meat.

And boy, howdy, is there meat — thick meat, raw meat, meat that climbs on rocks. The menu starts with a swaggering pair of samplers. The Butcher’s Platter ($29) includes Texas wild boar ham, turkey braunschweiger, and wild boar head cheese.

The Sausage Sampler ($29) features links of wild boar hot, Texas beef, and Berkshire pork and cheddar. They arrive casually slung amidst pools of barbecue sauce and whole grain mustard, plus a crisp, flavorful mound of red cabbage slaw. The menu also indicates an accompaniment called “stukel,” a foodstuff so rare that the only internet references to it are directly tied to the restaurant’s original Minneapolis location. Process of elimination implies it’s another name for the generous portion of what I would call giardiniera — a fiery melange of hot pepper-infused pickled cauliflower, onions, and carrot slices.

The Boar makes their sausage in house, and it’s a notable strength: The Texas beef link is dense and meaty, with some notable fiery heat. Equally substantial and also possessed of some kick, the wild boar hot link has pronounced chili powder notes. In contrast, the juicy Berkshire pork link — oozing with rich, melted cheddar cheese — is understated and approachable.

As far as the vibe, like any worldly, yet down-to-earth man about town, the Boar offers both elegant charm and casual fun. Similarly, the spaces — and menus — are divided into the chic, subdued interior with its swanky steakhouse fare, and the relaxed outdoor beer garden and its informal eats. At the former, expect wood-fired ribeye ($48) and New York strip ($42), or a salt and sugar-cured beef long rib ($49) that’s been smoked for 14 hours.

With the exception of the smoked pork chop ($39) or 8-ounce filet mignon ($39), the patio menu eschews such formality, focusing on a mix of starters, salads, and sandwiches. The steak tartare ($16), made with bone marrow aioli, jalapenos, and cornichon, arrives looking like a Hostess Sno Ball. “What’s that?” asked my dining companion, pointing suspiciously at the ethereal, flaky white mound.

The answer is a confusing mix of cheese, cheese, tender raw meat cubes, cheese and ‘why’? Completely and utterly dominated by the fine strands of salty pecorino, no trace of the jalapeno, cornichon, or bone marrow can be discerned. On the upside, the oil-rubbed grilled bread shines — a lone voice in the otherwise pecorino-drenched choir.

The snapper ceviche ($14) raises still more questions. A mismatched marriage of Central American tradition, Greek accouterments, and the Anchor Bar in Buffalo, N.Y., what arrives are chunks of fresh, tender snapper bathed in a vibrant orange sauce that tastes remarkably like Tabasco. Topped with pine nuts, yogurt dollops, fresh mint, and served with a bowl of arid seeded crackers it’s … not ceviche. If renamed something along the lines of “Buffalo-style crudo,” the elements might make more sense.

Sadly, service on the patio is also hard to nail down. Due perhaps to the 45-degree nip in the air and a lack of heaters, bonfires, or Tauntaun sleeping bags, our server was something of a phantom. This was exacerbated by a sudden descent of wait staff and the unexpected arrival of all six dishes at once. Coupled with the cramped real estate, the chilly temps made it a challenge to “get it while it’s hot.”

One dish that didn’t suffer any detriment from the Minnesota-spring weather was the peanut butter-stuffed jalapenos ($11). Here, seven halved, grilled jalapenos arrive artfully plated and filled with a trio of peanut butter, boiled peanuts, and chopped roasted peanuts. The unusual hat trick of peanut preparations is then adorned with crumbles of cotija cheese, pickled golden raisins, and fresh cilantro. It’s unclear what may have inspired this recipe — a Chopped mystery basket? Double-dog dare? LSD? — but no.

Cold, hot, in a box, with a fox — this is basically an inadvisable twist on ants on a log.

The “On a Bun” options, however, are solid bets.

The Boar foot long ($12) features a juicy, meaty dog enveloped in a disproportionately outsized brioche bun, the David Byrne-suit of breadstuffs. That aside, the net result is familiar, yet creative, topped with piquant Cajun chow-chow, Fresno peppers, mustard, and mayo.

For $3, one can swap the standard-issue potato chips for fries, Brussels sprouts, or a wedge salad, all of which are worth it. The Brussels are deep fried, then tossed in a tangy, spicy Buffalo-style glaze, while the fries are superlative — a frite by any other name. Similarly, the wedge salad — where even as a side dish, is presented as an actual wedge — shines with house-smoked bacon, blue cheese bits, and balsamic-infused tomato syrup. Despite my general apathy toward ranch dressing, iceberg lettuce, and DIY salad assembly, I’d order it again.

Last, but not least, the butcher burger ($13) is good reason to freeze one’s ass off on a dog-festooned outdoor deck. Juicy, flavorful, and gilded with bacon in two forms, it’s indicative of the Boar’s strengths. When it comes to ground meat formed into a patty or encased in intestines, they know what’s up.

All told, there are kinks to iron out, and the meat-heavy menu may not appeal to everyone. Still, despite a primary focus on beer, bourbon, and beasts, Butcher & The Boar offers enough variations on the theme to satisfy a wide array of tastes.

The post House-made sausages and burgers are good bets at Butcher & The Boar (Charleston City Paper) appeared first on Vanessa Wolf, MBA.

An elderly, lifelong mango farmer once told me a joke: A farmer wins a million dollars in the lottery. His friends all ask, “What are you going to do with the money?” The farmer considers this for a minute and replies, “Farm with it until it’s gone, of course.”

Simply put, farming is hard. And expensive. And maybe even inadvisable. Yet everything about Herd Provisions makes it seem not only easy … but enviable.

The hyper-farm-to-table bistro and butcher shop is (per their website) “owner Alec Bradford’s lifelong dedication to humanely raising heritage Ancient White Park cattle, hogs and poultry.” Stated plainly, the meat served by the restaurant has been raised on the owner’s Virginia farm, Leaping Waters (LWF). Meanwhile, just about everything else — from fruits and veggies to the beans, breads, and desserts — are locally sourced.

Occupying a bright, modern new building on Grove Street, the restaurant’s entrance is actually a butcher shop. After walking past the beef, pork, and poultry-filled display in front, there’s a glass-encased meat locker filled with hanging carcasses. Despite the potentially gruesome start to the experience and the fact that “herd” is in the name, the menu features a number of thoughtful vegan and vegetarian options, such as the roasted cauliflower ($17) and roasted delicata squash ($17) entrees.

Similarly, the fritto misto ($8) is the stuff of a veg-lover’s dreams, with cauliflower, zucchini, butternut squash, and maitake mushrooms coated in a super light, crispy crust. Paired with a vibrant lemon aioli and dusted with lemon zest, it’s at once totally addictive and a gentle reminder that there is still good in the world.

The carne cruda ($14) made with LWF top round is less successful. Explained by the warmly attentive and well-informed waitress as a “replacement for the carpaccio because watercress is out of season,” the cruda is served topped with a dusting of fresh horseradish and accompanied by grilled slices of Tiller bread. The cubes of top round are tossed with buttery pine nuts and a lemon-heavy chimichurri that seems to have denatured the meat, ceviche style. As a result, some pieces are incredibly chewy, and all feature a drab gray hue reminiscent of cooked eggplant.

On the opposite end of the color spectrum, the rainbow carrots ($8) are an unexpected showstopper. Truthfully, I don’t like cooked carrots, except now apparently I do. Served in a small cast iron pan, the slightly salty, al dente root vegetables are topped with chopped pistachios, fresh parsley, and bitter celery leaves. In contrast, the ring of honey-sweetened mascarpone cheese surrounding the colorful stack is nothing short of sublime. Light, but decadent, getting your daily allotment of beta carotene has never been more enjoyable.

For those more inclined to sink their teeth into some heritage swine, the pork confit ($24) has got what you need. Nuggets of fork-tender meat are submerged in a rich, bell pepper-based peperonata sauce and complemented by toothy Sea Island red peas. Topped with red jalapeño slices, frisée, and basil and cilantro leaves, the overall flavors come across as more Sichuan or Thai-influenced than the obvious Italian intentions. Gratifying regardless, just be sure not to spill any of the sauce on your ecru pants, as the stain will resist even advanced efforts to eradicate it, six hours soaking in a bucket of OxyClean be damned.

Meanwhile, it seemed improper to visit a butcher/farmer establishment and not sample the Ancient White Park cattle, so the LWF steak of the day, a bavette ($30), was called off the bench. Delicately seasoned, the juicy sirloin is served sliced and cooked perfectly as ordered, allowing the subtle flavors of the grass-fed meat to shine through. While the rich and creamy potato puree is enough to inspire light moaning, it’s upstaged by two thick, ripe slices of heirloom tomato, lightly enhanced with salt, olive oil, and three tiny basil leaves each.

A straightforward celebration of quality ingredients prepared with care, Herd Provisions is a welcome new addition that puts the farm in farm-to-table. While a future in husbandry probably isn’t for everyone, a satisfying dinner here most certainly should be.

The post New Grove Street bistro Herd Provisions serves quality ingredients prepared with care (Charleston City Paper) appeared first on Vanessa Wolf, MBA.

It’s the season of mandatory evacuations and hurricane parties, and there’s nothing quite like cocktail simplicity when contemplating the seaworthiness of your Charleston single.

We asked three celebrated local mixologists to craft something new using the three ingredients of their choice, with delicious results. Whether you tend to face the storms with an aura of tranquility, bravado, or getting the hell out of here, we’ve got a drink for that.

Bold

Batten down the hatches, turn on The Weather Channel and say a prayer with a smooth, smoky ‘Typical Miracle.’ Edmund’s Oast head bartender Jayce McConnell’s cheerful-looking concoction packs a punch. “I don’t try to hide the spirit base in this one at all,” McConnell notes. “With a three-ingredient cocktail you have to make sure everything in the glass stands out and supports the other two.”

Made with Spade & Clover turmeric-root-infused simple syrup, McConnell chose the locally grown plant for both the vibrant yellow color it provides, as well as the “balanced, earthy undertone” the dried plant imparts, perfect for pairing with a plate of tacos al pastor. Turmeric is also a powerful anti-inflammatory and antioxidant, helpful after a day spent manhandling plywood boards.

‘Typical Miracle’

1½ oz. mezcal (Vago Espadín preferably)
1 oz. turmeric syrup (recipe below)
¾ oz. lemon juice

For the turmeric syrup:

1 cup Demerara whole cane sugar
2 oz. Spade & Clover turmeric root, grated

Combine sugar and turmeric in a metal bowl and mix well, pressing the turmeric into the sugar. Allow this to macerate at room temperature for at least an hour. When ready, add 1 cup boiling water and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Strain through a fine mesh strainer, and allow to cool to room temp before use. Store in the refrigerator for up to a week. Prefer a drier drink? Reduce tumeric syrup used to ¾ oz.

Combine ingredients in cocktail shaker and shake well until very cold. Double strain over cracked ice in rocks glass. If you’re feeling fancy, splurge with a fourth ingredient and garnish with a lemon twist or mint leaf.

Fresh

Better safe than sorry. Pack your bags, fuel up the car, and make for sunnier skies. Once there, stop and smell the roses while sipping on bartender Michael Moore’s (39 Rue de Jean) ‘Flora.’

Also the owner of Charleston’s Rooftop Bees and Honey, Moore’s passion project pairs beehives with foster restaurants. “The bees get a safe environment downtown and the restaurant will be getting a greener product with the community becoming a little healthier,” Moore explains. “Win/win for everyone!”

Same goes for his floral cocktail, designed to showcase the honeybee and the deep, molasses-like richness of the honey they produce. “With the deep, clean, and refreshing flavors, I’d suggest a cheese plate to accompany this cocktail,” Moore advises.

‘Flora’

1½ oz. Nippitaty Gin
1½ oz. Hibiscus Tea
½ oz. Rooftop Bees and Honey fall wildflower honey syrup

Shake together and serve over ice, and if you’ve got some on hand, garnish with bee pollen for some extra-special flair.

Smooth

How would The Dude take on a hurricane? Well, you know, with like a bathrobe, a laid-back attitude and a steadfast determination that this aggression will not stand, man. And should storm conditions find him short on milk and vodka, Jamie Price’s (The Royal Tern) ‘The Brew’d Abides Y’All’ is sure to do the trick.

Once handed her assignment, Price took the challenge seriously. “I left The Royal Tern to brainstorm at Low Tide brewery,” she shares. “They have this delicious Hazelnut Brown right now that I wanted to do something with, but I just couldn’t seem to do it justice.”

However, Price’s self-confessed love for fall flavors and Kudu pumpkin spice lattes got her thinking, and — a bag or two of Olde Colony Bakery Original Charleston Benne Wafers later — inspiration struck, man.

A dessert cocktail, this White Russian-esque libation features a base of robust coffee vodka enhanced with a toasted nutty flair and slight toffee sweetness.

‘The Brew’d abides Y’All’

1½ oz. Cannon Coffee Vodka
¼ oz. Frangelico
2 oz. Benne wafer cream (recipe below)

For the Benne wafer cream:

Soak a 5 oz. box of Original Charleston Benne Wafers in 1 pint of cream for a couple hours and blend. Press through cheesecloth.

Shake together and serve over ice.

The post We asked local bartenders to create a cocktail using only three ingredients – and share the recipes (Charleston City Paper) appeared first on Vanessa Wolf, MBA.

According to local lore, Nashville hot chicken owes its existence to a two-timing man.

At the height of the Great Depression, Thornton Prince’s girlfriend grew tired of his philandering ways. Sneaking in early one morning, Thornton discovered his lady had prepared him his favorite dish, fried chicken. However, in an act of revenge, she’d loaded it with all the cayenne pepper in the pantry.

The plan to teach her man a lesson backfired. Thornton loved the intense flavor, and shared some with his brothers, who agreed. While the name of the now ex-girlfriend has been lost to history, the recipe has not. Thornton and his siblings recreated the spicy seasoning, and a few years later, the BBQ Chicken Shack café opened. For nearly 80 years, the fiery poultry remained a popular secret of Nashville’s black community, due mostly to pervasive racial segregation.

In 1980, Thornton’s grand-niece, Andre Prince Jeffries, took over the business and renamed it Prince’s Chicken Shack. A decade later, she moved the establishment to a strip mall in East Nashville, where it remains to this day.

Over the years, others began to emulate the recipe, a trend that was picked up on by the son of a successful restaurateur. The first Hattie B’s opened in 2012, in a hip, trendy area adjacent to both Music Row and the Vanderbilt and Belmont University campuses.

By 2016, KFC had jumped on the bandwagon, and even City Paper was in on the hot stuff, with food writer Robert Donovan gracing a Feb. cover “Searching for Nashville Hot Chicken in Charleston.” Four of the seven local hot chicken spots in Charleston are now shuttered, which means if you’re afflicted with a hankering, you’d best make the trek down the live oak and Spanish-moss canopied Betsy Kerrison Parkway.

A stone’s throw from Kiawah, KinFolk occupies the tiny space once inhabited by Crave Smokehouse. With snug seating for two dozen, it’s something of a shack in its own right. Owned and operated by a pair of brothers, there’s a welcoming “door’s always open” vibe that permeates everything from the decor to the food.

The menu changes often, seemingly most influenced by the whims of nature and her bounty, and on my visit, the heirloom tomato salad ($9) beckoned. Simple and straightforward, it does exactly what one would hope — elevate the pure pleasure of a perfectly ripe, late-summer tomato. Cut into mouthful-sized chunks, the tomatoes are tossed with paper-thin shallots and a light vinaigrette, then finished with ribbons of fresh parsley and basil. In a world where my postage stamp-size backyard nurtured more than just weeds, herbs, and hot peppers … this is the salad I would make for myself.

In contrast, the crispy pork ribs ($10) were less successful. Although the Korean kal-bi like sweet soy “sticky sauce” is on point, the ribs themselves are tough and unforgiving. Efforts to free the meat from the bone result in a scene more befitting a hungry hyena than a first date. On the other hand, seeing how a potential mate handles such an oral tug-of-war might be a good idea after all.

Service is warm and efficient, and the closely set seating lends itself to crossover conversations with fellow diners. While normally one to give a wide berth to communal table situations, the low-key, friendly ambiance is, well, downright familial.

When approaching the Nashville-style hot chicken, I started in the shallow end with the quarter bird ($6.75 leg and thigh/$7.25 breast and wing) prepared mild. The breaded poultry is fried to an enduring outer crunch and then hand coated with a mix of (educated guess) brown sugar, black pepper, and garlic powder, plus cumin, smoked paprika, and lard. In addition, much like Indian or Thai cuisine, note that even the ‘mild’ has a small touch of heat.

Served on a slice of white sandwich bread and accompanied by three lightly brined bread-and-butter pickles, the chicken itself is at once crisp and juicy. Arguably, it’s at the hot level ($14 half chicken/$26 whole) that the dish achieves true Nashville distinction. The melange of black pepper, smoked paprika, and sweet sugar hit first, followed by a slow burn at the back of the throat. The chicken’s inherent mildness helps to temper any real intensity, and the heat lingers for just a few seconds. In other words, order it this way if you can.

I have to imagine that the fire seasoning is closest to what Thornton Prince was served that fateful morning. With a similar sweet/smoky start, the cayenne comes on late and strong, resulting in a long-lasting smolder that can be felt — more than tasted — down one’s throat. It’s also now clear why Thornton didn’t take his punishment all that seriously, as the cayenne’s heat falls in the comparably bearable middle of the Scoville scale, far below the brutal habanero, Scotch bonnet, or bhut jolokia (a.k.a. ghost pepper).

For those less inclined toward spicy food, the B.L.T. ($9) beckons. While not entirely devoid of spice — there are traces of a rub evocative of that on the chicken — the three large, tender slices of smoked pork belly are in genteel company. Placed in a soft, sweet bun along with a fat, juicy slice of heirloom tomato and salad-sized pile of baby red and romaine lettuce, it’s a light, upscale take on the classic sandwich.

Served with pickles and Zapp’s potato chips, upgrading to a housemade side will set you back an additional $2. The cucumber salad ($3.75 a la carte) is an unexpected pleasure. Large chunks of seeded cucumber are tossed with parsley, dill seed, and a sour cream-based dressing. Simple and refreshing, you get the sense that whoever is making this food gives a damn, and is enjoying themselves at the same time.

Meanwhile, the tender pit-cooked beans ($4) lounge in a tangy barbecue sauce and are accompanied by hefty chunks of smoky pulled pork. Chockablock with the tender meat, the generous portion could serve as a meal unto itself.

Last up, the sweet corn salad ($4) took somebody some time to prepare. Freshly shaved from the cob, the toothy grids of corn are combined with diced red onions, parsley, and bell peppers, and tossed in a simple vinaigrette. It’s an uncomplicated taste of summer that also feels like a labor of love.

Living up to its endearing name in both food and service, KinFolk is a charming outpost and a welcome addition to the Charleston family, not to mention a kickass, passive aggressive way to make a cheating (now) ex sweat.

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Along with elegant villas, simple peasant dwellings, and a massive amphitheater, the ruins of Pompeii were filled with “thermopolia,” small shops that prepared hot food for hungry Romans on the go. If takeout has existed since 79 A.D., delivery has been around almost as long.

While the 2,000 years since were primarily dominated by the transport of pizza and Chinese food, the last 10 have more or less changed everything. From burritos and bagged ice to groceries and cigarettes, there’s almost nothing that someone won’t deliver to your door these days.

With offerings ranging from nationwide fast food chains to eclectic, high-end restaurants, almost anything your heart desires is available from the likes of Grubhub, Uber Eats, and Postmates. Yes, it’s inarguably a great time to be alive — not to mention lazy — but what does all this delivery mean for local restaurants?

“We live in an ‘I can have everything now’ culture,” says Tres Jackson, chef/owner of Sorghum & Salt. “At the same time, it makes sense for people to have the option to have food delivered for, say, lunch while they’re at work. And I can see delivery being useful and even super convenient for restaurants with a consistent menu.”

So it’s probably not surprising that Sorghum & Salt, a fiercely farm-to-table eatery, doesn’t offer delivery, or even takeout for that matter. “Although we do on occasion have someone order something to take with them, we don’t offer call-in takeout, and I don’t foresee us ever offering delivery,” Jackson continues. “For one thing, our menu is constantly evolving, and it would be hard to keep updated. Secondly, we choose to focus on the guests and their experience here, and perhaps most importantly, I don’t think it would be the best presentation of our food, as the focus on showcasing fresh ingredients would be lost in translation.”

Still, many are on board, with varying motivations and results. “Thanks to Wall St., There May Be Too Many Restaurants,” was the headlines in The New York Times in Oct. 2017, forecasting hard times ahead for the restaurant industry.

Along with rising costs, labor shortages, and fluctuating customer preferences, the Times noted that “Since the early 2000s, banks, private equity firms, and other financial institutions have poured billions into the restaurant industry as they sought out more tangible enterprises than the dot-com start-ups that were going belly-up. There are now more than 620,000 eating and drinking places in the United States, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, and the number of restaurants is growing at about twice the rate of the population.”

In a world where supply greatly outpaces demand, what’s a restaurant to do?

“We started with Uber Eats about five months ago because wanted to boost our daily sales,” says Jeremiah Schenzel, chef/owner of Daps Breakfast & Imbibe. “They offered to let us try it out before we committed full time, and we thought it would also help get our name out there a bit more.”

And while the venture is currently going well — nearly 20 percent of the hip eatery’s Fruity Pebble pancakes and spinach and mushroom hashes are sent out the door — there are a few inherent challenges. “We don’t offer our whole menu for delivery,” explains Schenzel. “Some things just don’t travel well, so we don’t include them as options.”

This is wise, as reviews — particularly those left on large, crowd-sourced forums like Yelp — can be damaging out of context. “I like to think that people who are ordering food online are also understanding that it is not going to be exactly how it would be actually eating it in the restaurant,” he notes.

Healthy favorite Basic Kitchen shares a similar hope, telling us, “We always want our food to be presented well, so we carry that over to the to-go orders, understanding that when the dish leaves our restaurant, we lose control.”

In their Feb. 2018 article “How Delivery Apps May Put Your Favorite Restaurant Out of Business,” The New Yorker found that delivery — beyond the issues of food transport — might not be all it seems.

Michelle Gauthier, owner of New York’s Mulberry & Vine, told them, “We know for a fact that as delivery increases, our profitability decreases. For each order that Mulberry & Vine sends out, between 20 and 40 percent of the revenue goes to third-party platforms and couriers. I think it’s a far bigger problem than a lot of operators realize. I think we are losing money on delivery orders, or, best-case scenario, breaking even.”

In short, for those in a more-seasoned delivery environment, such as New York, San Francisco, or Los Angeles, those orders may augment some sales, but cannibalize others.

To that point, in a research report published in June 2017, Morgan Stanley found that 43 percent of delivery patrons acknowledged that a meal they ordered with a courier service replaced one they would have otherwise eaten at a restaurant. The study projected that the total U.S. food delivery market could grow from $11 billion to as much as $210 billion, and that — by 2022 — online food delivery is likely to expand to account for 6 to 11 percent of total food sales.

Here in Charleston, however, it’s a relatively new phenomenon and seems to be a boon for all parties. “I think it opens a lot of doors,” says Schenzel. “It can give you a boost on slower days, even if it’s just a small part of your sales.”

At Basic Kitchen — where roughly 10 percent of food sales are for carryout, and about half of that includes their partnership with Postmates — a spokesperson shared downright altruistic intentions for joining the service.

“We recognized that a lot of our guests weren’t always able to take a lunch break, but wanted to eat healthy. Our lunch menu offers a lot of options for people who need healthy fuel to keep their workday going. It’s also a great way to try new menus without going out constantly, and we especially see it booming at lunch, when parking and time can be limited.”

Intriguingly, a number of fine dining establishments appearing as top-rated options on DoorDash and Postmates responded to my inquiries, but wished to remain anonymous for this story. “It’s great for certain types of establishments, but we believe that delivery services are probably best-suited to a different type of guest,” one told me.

However, he goes on to say that while the restaurant does offer to-go service, they don’t promote it. Nonetheless, couriers for the services are clearly hip to the option. When asked, the fine dining spokesperson says, “If the demand for to-go starts to get heavier, we will probably stop offering the service.”

Whether the future of food delivery includes complex subterfuge to liberate and convey Michelin-starred meals, drones dropping bags of KFC, or something in between, it’s still comforting to know that we live in an age where you can get Daps B’Fast Banh Mi or Basic Kitchen’s Buffalo Fried Cauliflower brought to your couch.

The post How does ubiquitous food delivery affect Charleston restaurants? (Charleston City Paper) appeared first on Vanessa Wolf, MBA.

Much like a night spent consuming them, the origins of the margarita are a little bit hazy.

On the one hand, Carlos “Danny” Herrera claims to have invented the drink in 1938, when a picky customer came into his Tijuana restaurant wanting a mixed drink made with tequila. Add to him the handful of bartenders claiming to have created the cocktail in honor of beautiful women named Margarita. If that’s not enough, Dallas socialite Margarita Sames took it a step further, insisting that she first concocted the drink in 1948, while vacationing with friends. As luck would have it, one of her travel companions was hotelier Tommy Hilton, who later put it on his menu.

Be that what it may, the least-colorful explanation may also be the most factual. In 1945, tequila maker Jose Cuervo began running an ad campaign with the tagline, “Margarita: It’s more than a girl’s name.” This slogan, along with the straightforward recipe, has led to speculation that a margarita is actually just a daisy in agave clothing.

Popular during Prohibition, a daisy (not-so-coincidentally, the word for “margarita” in English) utilizes the same ingredients with brandy in place of tequila. The formula is seemingly a familiar one; substitute rum, and you have a daiquiri. Swap in cognac, and it’s a sidecar. Grab a bottle of cachaca, and you’ve got a caipirinha.

Regardless of backstory, when considering the perfect margarita, what matters most is spot-on preparation. But in a world of blended, fruity, spicy, and skinny variations, what does that even mean anymore?

“In my opinion, you have to start with good tequila,” says Morgan Hurley, marketing and beverage director for Mex 1 Coastal Cantina and two-time (2017 and 2018) winner of the Charleston Margarita Festival. “100 percent blue agave tequila is a must, and I personally prefer sustainable brands.

“In addition to the alcohol, it’s about balancing some sort of acidity, like lime or other citrus, and some sort of good sweetener like agave, simple syrup, or honey. Along with orange liqueur, I think using seasonal ingredients is what takes it to the next level. These are things like watermelon, peaches, and hibiscus in the summer, or pomegranates, blood oranges, and hot peppers in cooler months.

“Personally, I think salt is a necessity in the sense that it can dampen down some sweetness and bring out subtle flavors that weren’t there before,” continues Hurley. “You want at least a half-salt rim. A perfect margarita — even a skinny margarita — shouldn’t be overly sweet or overly sour, you want some balance on your palate.”

The folks behind the bar at Sol Southwest Kitchen and Tequila Bar, runner-up in the 2018 Margarita Festival competition, echoed similar, if simpler sentiments. “For a perfect margarita, one should only use 100 percent Blue Agave Tequila and fresh juice.”

While Sol’s popular 2018 entry was a fresh blueberry margarita prepared with just-squeezed lime juice and crisp basil leaves, their plans for this year are “top secret, but always fresh and delicious.”

With two wins under their belt, Mex 1’s Hurley is less cagey, noting they’ll once again serve their Baja Tanga, the 2017 Margarita festival winner. Made with tequila, watermelon, rosé, lime juice, and agave, Hurley concedes, “It’s a popularity contest, and once I start saying ‘tequila, watermelon and rosé…’ Well, you can imagine. But at the same time, and even though I’d really love to win for a third year in a row, I know that the contest isn’t going to be as strong if we keep winning every year. Maybe, in that case, I’ll become a judge.”

With a core recipe based in relatively simple ingredients, the margarita is now available in countless forms. Modern times have brought the spicy margarita, the skinny margarita, and margaritas containing more or less every kind of fruit — not to mention herb and/or chili pepper — on the planet. With so much variance, it’s notable that spokespeople for both Sol and Mex 1 are on the same page as to where the future of this classic cocktail might lead.

“I think consumers are more conscious and aware than ever with respect to what they are eating and drinking,” says a spokesperson for Sol. “They care about where the ingredients come from and how they are prepared, and cocktails will continue to follow the same path as food has. Increasingly, people want to know, ‘Where does the alcohol I’m drinking come from?’ or ‘What ingredients are in my cocktail?’ and that’s an important trend — accountability. I also think mezcal will continue to appear on more and more cocktail menus, as well as being introduced to cocktails that combine tequila with other spirits.”

Mex 1’s Hurley agrees, “I think consumers are having real conversations with the brands, and things are now much more about sustainability and quality. I feel that we’re seeing a more educated and in-tune consumer who wants to support the tequila producers that are doing it right. I think it breaks down in two ways: Utilizing more locally sourced ingredients that reflect the seasonality of what you’re trying to do, as well as supporting the brands that are creating a more sustainable climate for the future.”

Whether you prefer salt, spice, strawberries or sustainability, margaritas are here to stay. While it’s anyone’s guess who might win this year’s Margarita Festival contest, the efforts are sure to be outstanding, and a touch haze-inducing. Keep calm and sip responsibly but should all else fail, there’s always the timeless advice of singer/songwriter, restaurateur, and margarita advocate, Jimmy Buffett: “If life gives you limes, make margaritas.”

The post Breaking down the humble and beloved margarita (Charleston City Paper) appeared first on Vanessa Wolf, MBA.

Imagine if Holy City Brewing and EVO Pizzeria had a baby.

Oh, wait. That already happened.

Born in the spring, new arrival Baker & Brewer combines the lofty warehouse space and innovative craft brews you love, with the dough-based sustenance you need. Set just off Huger Street in the old DeSano Pizza Bakery building, the adorable offspring is actually a family affair, as little sister EVO Craft Bakery has her own corner, replete with early morning hours and her own separate entrance.

While the industrial vibe, long bar, and beer selection-covered chalkboard evoke the spirit of Holy City’s North Charleston location, the menu is all EVO. Enjoy some Park Circle déjà vu, as all your favorites have made the jump, starting with the wood-fired olives ($6).

Truthfully, like many people, I have a love/hate thing with olives. Although my fridge pretty much always has a jar of meaty, green Castelvetrano or Cerignola in stock, it’s the salty, pimento-stuffed Spanish Manzanillas — workhorse of the dirty martini — I can live without.

The mix offered by Baker & Brewer (henceforth known as B&B) is reminiscent of the marinated Greek assortment found on a grocery store olive bar, with a familiar base of firm green and soft black Kalamata offerings. Tossed in a mild poblano puree, the briny drupes are served sizzling hot and wrinkled. Even if you don’t like olives, be sure to make a grab for a few of the tender garlic cloves nestled throughout. Above all, bring some friends, as the portion is generous and the salt levels certain to inspire some mighty thirst.

On that note, beverage options abound. Along with canned versions of HCB classics like Pluff Mud Porter ($6) and Overly Friendly IPA ($6), there are original drafts brewed only for the new venture ($6). Not into beer? There are also over a dozen wines by the glass ($7-$11) and craft cocktails ($8-$11), plus a full smattering of coffee and espresso drinks.

Service is friendly and efficient, and food comes up quickly. While the appetizer offerings skew heavy, the peach salad ($8 half/$11 whole) is a crisp, refreshing bowl of summer. Made with a base of delicate Kurios Farms Bibb lettuce and pungent cilantro leaves, it’s topped with toasted pecans, pickled red peppers, and juicy fresh peaches. Light and sweet, the only arguable shortcoming comes in the form of the rich, spicy ‘creamy herb dressing,’ entirely too powerful for the otherwise subtle flavors. Squeeze on some lemon or eat it plain, however, and it’s wholesome July bliss.

On the other end of the spectrum, the snap pea salad ($8 half/$11 whole) is a dense, vegetal offering. Low-key koala chow, it’s chock full of stiff Tuscan kale. Along with clove-infused pickled onions, toasted almonds, and meaty speck (think thick-cut prosciutto), the sweet snap peas and subtle ginger vinaigrette barely stand a chance. Not to backseat cook, but perhaps a dressing-based wife swap is in order? I’m into it, for what it’s worth.

On that note, Fidel only wishes he’d gotten his lips around B&B’s magnificent duck Cuban ($11). Toothy semolina bread is filled with decadent confit duck and equally sumptuous speck. With nary a molecule of basic roast pork or simple sliced ham, this is the equivalent to preparing a tuna noodle casserole with lobster. Consider the melted Swiss cheese, vibrant house-made pickles, and luscious mojo aioli, and the results are almost a worthy argument for a Marxist–Leninist socialist state. Almost.

Meanwhile, any fan of the original EVO knows all about the eponymous extra virgin ovens. Wood-fired splendors endure at B&B, where the Margherita ($13) pizza is every bit as reliable as its predecessor. Wonderfully balanced, it’s all about sweet crushed tomatoes and aromatic basil leaves, tempered by the chewy dough and mellow fresh mozzarella cheese.

Similarly, the pistachio pesto ($14) pie is all soft edges and vegetarian dreams. With its soft, thin crust, and simple, cheesy notes, it would probably be kinda, sorta, (extremely) easy to eat the entire thing all by yourself. Should this happen, defend your voraciousness with math and offer to calculate the number of 12-inch B&B pies (circles of radius r) that can fit into an 18-inch New York-style pizza (circle of radius R). In other words, “Yes. I ate the entire thing while you weren’t looking, but that’s roughly the equivalent of three large slices, which is entirely reasonable.” Should this fail, look remorseful and order another one immediately.

Originally born of friendships and shared dreams, EVO Pizzeria and Holy City Brewing have endured thanks to good ideas and better products. A venture so deft, it seems obvious, bouncing baby Baker & Brewer has clearly inherited the best of both parents.

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For nearly 70 years, South of the Border in Hamer has been a welcome pit stop or overnight host for weary drivers traveling up and down the I-95 corridor. But before the roadside landscape from Virginia to Georgia was brimming with miles of colorful, humorous ‘come hither’ billboards, there was Alan Schafer.

His roots run deep. Back in the late 1860’s, Alan’s German-American grandfather, Abraham, came to Little Rock, SC, and was one of the first Jews to settle in the area. Soon thereafter, in 1870, Abraham purchased a general store from his employer, Tom Dillon, and founded The Schafer Company.

In 1888, son Sam Schafer was born, eventually growing up to assume the role of general manager of the dry goods portion of The Schafer Company, while father Abraham continued to oversee the grocery and hardware divisions. Alan first entered the scene in 1914, and ultimately graduated from Dillon High School in 1930. That same year, he left for Columbia and attended the University of South Carolina, where he was pursuing a major in journalism.

However, in 1933, shortly before Alan’s senior year, his father, Sam, implored him to return home, as Abraham’s health was failing. The eldest Shafer passed away that fall, just as an unlikely new business opportunity surfaced. Realizing the potential in the repeal of Prohibition, Sam took a trip to Baltimore and returned with a truckload of beer. It didn’t take long before they discovered that the same people who had struggled to pay their grocery bill were somehow able to purchase the bottles of ale.

THE EARLY DAYS

Soon thereafter, father Sam and son Alan formed the Schafer Distributing Company. Alan passed away in 1945, but Alan continued to grow the business, eventually expanding it to include warehouses in North Carolina. In 1948, North Carolina passed a ‘local option’ law, which allowed for county-based legislation regarding the sale of alcohol. Robeson County, across the border from Dillon, was the first to vote it into effect, suddenly becoming a dry county. Recognizing the favorable circumstances, Alan purchased three acres of land on U.S. 301 and built an 18’ x 36’ cinderblock building on the site. Legend has it the building materials for the structure were addressed to the “Schafer Project South of the North Carolina Border,” a name that inspired Alan to dub his new enterprise “South of the Border Beer Depot.” Soon, he was legally selling up to two cases of beer per person, intended for transport across the state line.

At its inception, the beer depot had a six-stool bar area. To appease North Carolina lawmakers and the Robeson County sheriff, the space was soon expanded into a grill selling hot dogs and hamburgers. The name was also changed to South of the Border Drive-In. These modifications resulted in an unexpected boon, as it turns out the small eatery was the only place along that portion of U.S. 301 where a traveler could get a bite to eat without venturing off the highway. It did so well that, despite continued success in the beer distribution business, the restaurant’s sales were soon outpacing everything else.

Over the next two years, a small motel and gas station were added, and by the mid-1950s, the establishment’s name was abbreviated to South of the Border. Soon thereafter, the campy Mexican theme emerged, along with the trinkets and memorabilia still sold today. “My grandfather went down to Mexico to source all that at first,” recounts Ryan Schafer, Alan’s grandson and the current owner of S.O.B. “Two of the guys he met on a trip down there wanted to come back to the United States, so he helped them immigrate and gave them jobs as bellboys in the motel.”

As the Mexican employees settled into their new lives and posts at the burgeoning South Carolina enterprise, visitors began to refer to them both as ‘Pedro,’ thus sealing the deal on what has now become an occasional source of discomfort, dispute and misunderstanding in online reviews and publications. While there are some who find Pedro and the kitschy Mexican-themed products and trinkets insensitive or even racist, Ryan reports it’s rarely an issue with visitors.

“Most people enjoy the Pedro theme, and understand it’s good-natured,” Ryan notes. “Every now and then we get somebody that complains, but, honestly, they’re never Mexican or even Hispanic.” As for the Mexican men that originally inspired the trope? “They still live around here,” says Ryan. “They’ve got to be in their 70’s — or older — by now, but they come by, and we see them from time to time.”

EXPANDING THE BUSINESS

In 1956, Eisenhower announced the inception of the National System of Interstate and Defense Highways, a plan to construct a national road grid. A new highway, spanning from Miami to the Houlton–Woodstock Border Crossing in Maine, was planned. When Alan Schafer learned it would enter South Carolina near the junction of U.S. 301 and U.S. 501 and within the range of his current ventures, he began buying up land in the area. This shrewd act of foresight ultimately resulted in today’s South of the Border tourist complex.

While the enterprises and entertainment found at S.O.B. have shifted over the decades, these days, the 300-acre roadside attraction offers 100 full hook-up RV sites, plus a 300-room motor inn boasting both indoor and outdoor pools. There are also two gas stations, as well as six restaurants, including the dinner-only Peddler Steak House and the hat-shaped Sombrero Restaurant, which matches customer’s donations to the Shriner’s Children’s Hospital and commemorates them on the wall.

Along with a 200-foot tall sombrero-topped observation tower (whose neon glow can be seen lighting the night sky for miles in every direction), South of the Border features a convention and banquet center that can accommodate up to 700 guests. You may wonder who’s booking these facilities. “People get married here all the time,” shares Ryan, “probably around 20 couples every year, maybe more. Sometimes it’s because they came here when they were kids, and up until the 80s, it was a lot easier to get married here in South Carolina because we didn’t require a blood test. We’ve got two people on staff that can legally perform the marriage. We can do it with a day or so of notice.”

Even if tying the knot isn’t in your plans, there are still opportunities for selfies galore. Along with a cast of giant, whimsical, Instagram-worthy statues (including a bright red, 100-foot long Dachsund/weiner dog), available for purchase is pretty much every form of souvenir known to man, ever. Always wished for a picture of yourself in a heavily embellished sombrero or ten? This is the place.

For the young and young at heart/lower back, Pedroland is an amusement park featuring a Ferris wheel, bumper cars and a simulator ride, among others. There’s also an arcade, located in the base of the sombrero observation tower, as well as two, 18-hole championship miniature golf courses, the professional Master’s of which is held every October in North Myrtle Beach.

Fort Pedro’s Fireworks Shop is why Ryan reports that July is South of the Border’s busiest time, “We sell a lot of fireworks. Even though they’re legal in a lot of places now, they’re still very popular. We also sell a lot of sombreros and a lot of key chains,” he continues. ““And lately we’ve gotten into Mexican pottery, such as Talavera animals from the Puebla area.”

Indeed, along with the self-proclaimed “largest stock of fireworks on the East Coast,” the souvenir shops are chockablock with S.O.B. memorabilia and a rather extraordinary assortment of Mexican items. But it’s not all shot glasses and sombreros. There are also intentionally campy and off-color gifts, like plastic poop, a roll with packaging emblazoned with “Generic Toilet Paper for Cheap Bastards” or adult gag gifts like the, ahem, ‘Peter meter.’

As for the hops-flavored alcoholic beverage that started it all? “We still sell beer,” confirms Ryan. “Our selection is fairly extensive, but it’s not a huge part of the business anymore. North Carolina is no longer dry, and they can even buy it there on Sundays.”

RECENT DEVELOPMENTS

Alas, change is inevitable, although not necessarily a bad thing. In 2012, Ryan, an avid motocross fan, opened the cleverly-named SOBMX. It features four competition-caliber Supercross, Arenacross and motocross tracks, two of which are open to all levels of skill, and two that are limited to professionals. Speaking of whom, there is also a professional SOBMX motocross racing team, as well as a kid-filled amateur team made up of both male and female racers. And for those who might be interested in taking up the sport, there’s also a structured training program with three dedicated professionals at the helm.

But despite all that, Ryan reports that his current favorite attraction is one that doesn’t get as much love from visitors. “The Reptile Lagoon gets overlooked because it’s further from the road,” he states. “It’s our newest attraction, and as far as the doctor whose animals are displayed there and I know, it’s the largest reptile zoo in the U.S. We’ve got alligators, frogs and turtles, along with hundreds of snakes. We also have several species of crocodiles, along with a huge snake that’s something like 21 or 22-feet long.”

There’s also a giant tortoise from Aldabra, Africa in the Indian Ocean, plus the New Guinean Fly River or pig-nose turtle, a rare freshwater turtle that has true flippers like the ocean-going varieties. While a percentage of every admission fee is donated to the Crocodile Conservation charity, the Reptile Lagoon isn’t a non-profit affair. As visitors exit, they pass through the gift shop, filled (perhaps not surprisingly) with a plethora of reptile-themed souvenirs.

As for the future of this long-standing, family-run business, Ryan notes, “I’ve got a son, but he’s only 12 and hasn’t shown much interest in running South of the Border yet.” While that’s understandable, no doubt the throngs of hungry, curious travelers who visit the nostalgic pit stop every year are hoping that the young Schafer eventually changes his mind and one day dons the symbolic sombrero.

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