In addition to its multi-themed menu, The Rusty Rudder offers three distinct dining vibes: a metal-clad bar dominated by two large TVs overhead, adjacent family-style dining areas, and a large outdoor bar/patio equipped with a bad-ass fireplace. If you show up during Monday Night Football or similar sportscasts — or dine outside the nights there is live music — expect things to get loud. The young staff is friendly and enthusiastic and food is brought to the table as soon as it’s prepared, so eat quickly if you’ve ordered starters.

This advice goes double for the she-crab soup (cup for $4.95, bowl for $6.95). Unnaturally rich and creamy, the soup was dense with real crab. At first akin to the bisque version of something you’d dip chips in, as it cooled the soup took on the consistency of cheese. Every second counts as you race against time, temperature, thermodynamics, the expanding universe, and whatever remaining elements comprise the speed at which the whole thing becomes uncomfortably stiff. You’ve been warned.

While we’re recounting disappointments, let’s give the oyster seafood platter ($17.99) its due. Nine tiny fried oysters were accompanied by some celery seed-laden cole slaw that had seen better days. The hand-cut fries were the runaway highlight and provided in generous portion. Still, considering the price tag, we expected more.

The crab cake and fried green tomato salad ($16.95) is an interesting invention. A salad in name alone (may we suggest “stack”?), this is a notably decadent option. Two crisp, fried green tomato slices embrace a large, lush crab cake in a juxtaposition that works quite nicely. While the cake is made with bell peppers, celery, and green onion, crab meat comprises the majority of the pan-fried cake. As an appetizer, this would shine, but as an entree it arrives cowering in the dark shadow of an accompanying mountain of tasteless rice and saddled with the added burden of some wilted green tomato slaw and the vegetable of the day — salty sautéed spinach and onions. It’s a good idea in the wrong part of the menu. A local blue crab cake with two fried green tomatoes as an appetizer, however, sounds like a home run.

Back on the barbecue side of the spectrum, the Rudder Signature Ribs (half rack for $15.95, full rack for $28.95) are worthy of the name. The meat was tender, but still had some chew, and the visible smoke ring confirms the authenticity of the deep flavor. Topped with a thin layer of sweet house-made barbecue sauce, this is where it’s at. The accompanying collard greens are also expertly done. Earthy and tender, they’re the perfect accompaniment to the meaty ribs, leading one to wonder if maybe The Rusty Rudder should abandon all other means of cooking in favor of the smoker.

While the name implies casual, the menu is a bit of an identity crisis, and the prices too much for what’s delivered, your best bet — for now — seems to be to treat The Rusty Rudder as a somewhat pricey sports bar with a solid grip on barbecue.